Updated 30 July 2009

First week in the Aveyron (based at Naucelle between Rodez & Albi)

View from our pitch at Camping du Lac de Bonnefon:




Friday 24 July 2009

At Camping du Lac de Bonnefon, fresh bread, croissants and so on can be ordered each evening for collection at 8.30 the following morning from Reception. After breakfast we downloaded any remaining photos from both cameras to the laptop and chose a smaller set of photos covering the six days since leaving La Rochelle to use in this blog (the ones in the previous update). We then took the laptop to Reception and the free wi-fi service worked perfectly; however the speed seems slow - especially noticeable when uploading the pictures. So it took a long time to post the update and we followed that with a quick session of Internet banking and downloading (mostly junk) e-mails. Nearly two hours total on-line!

After that we felt like a swim. The pool looks very nice but we found it overwhelmed with kids whose behaviour might kindly be described as uninhibited - that is to say they were screaming and shouting (a total noise level fractionally below the pain threshold), running, dive-bombing and using the long plastic "float" things as weapons, beating mainly the water and occasionally each other. Actual swimming would have been impossible and simply entering the water far from pleasant, as doubtless realised by the many mums and dads around the pool chatting sociably (how did they hear what they were saying?) or lying on sunbeds, none making the slightest attempt to restrain their little darlings. From our experience in the few days since the start of the school holidays, French families tend to socialise together better than their British counterparts, parents paying more attention to their kids. You hear parents raise their voices less often. While this is good, it seems to carry a price of over-indulgence, although truly bad behaviour seems rarer than in Britain (especially among pre-teens).

So we gave up on swimming and had lunch instead, after which we drove the Smart into Naucelle, a pretty and interesting old town deserving more exploration. Shopping for essentials, we found a good butcher and fruiterer (le Coin Frais); the Ecomarche round the corner satisfied the rest of our list. Their fish counter was excellent and we bought fresh sardines to make a starter for the beef casserole we had prepared yesterday for this evening's supper. The weather throughout today was a mixture of warm sunshine, passing cloud and the same refreshing breeze as yesterday - a perfect summer day in fact. Driving back to the campsite in a roofless Smart carrying our food and wine was a Gallic sort of serendipity and supper fulfilled all its promises.

Marian lunching at Camping du Lac de Bonnefon:




Saturday 25 July 2009



In the morning we drove the Smart into the village again to visit the market; this was in the main square, also extending into a few of the adjoining narrow streets. We bought a honeycomb from a bee keeper, some home-made chutney and a useful Moulinex slicing and grating device.

Naucelle - the market & church:



Back at the campsite the pool was quiet and looked inviting so we went for a swim. There were only two children there, both little boys - the first was already a serious swimmer doing a fast crawl; the second was at an earlier stage and trying to improve his technique with mum's help to move from doggy-paddle to a proper crawl stroke - this was fun to watch especially as he made real progress quickly. It was nice to see such a good relationship between a mum and her small son. After a lovely swim in a warm pool, we dried off on sunbeds and sunbathed for a while, but the clouds were receding and it was becoming very hot (well into the 30s).

After lunch we drove to the beautiful medieval village of Sauveterre-de-Rouergue, a few km beyond Naucelle. This is startling enough to be well-known yet it remains mercifully free of crowds and tourist tat. Its most famous feature is its main square with colonnaded arches forming shaded walkways on all four sides, and lovely old buildings many of them dating from before the 15th century. Just off the square is the Romanesque church which is a gem, with original, elaborately carved choir stalls and pews for the clergy dating from the 13th century (the pews not the clergy).

Sauveterre-de-Rouergue:



We returned to the campsite using tiny, narrow lanes threading their way through the many deep, wooded valleys of this area and enjoyed yet another barbecue. We had a phone call from our daughter who, with her family, is spending tonight at our home in Cumbria. Today she successfully completed a mountain marathon in the lake district; a rather different day from ours!

Sunday 26 July 2009

We set off around mid-day in the Smart to visit the hilltop medieval villages of Cordes-sur-Ciel and Najac, both lying some 50Km to the West of Naucelle.



We used a fairly direct but tortuous route through the lanes again, passing the tiny fortified hamlet of Castelnau, it's castle now in ruins; then heading for Castelmary and it's chateau overlooking the wooded valley of the Lezert, one of the Aveyron's smaller rivers. We crossed the larger River Viaur by the narrow medieval stone bridge at Le Pont de Cirou, the river looking green and languid in the rising heat of mid-day. The cloud of the last few days had vanished and so had any trace of wind. It was roastingly hot and the sky was a deep, unbroken blue above the forest's many shades of green. Still on tiny, narrow, twisty and steep back lanes (the Smart, roof open of course, is perfect for this) we passed through Pampelonne - like a ghost village this Sunday morning - past the ruined tower of Thuries standing guard above the Viaur gorges. We suspect that this would be a fine area for walking close to the river (a GR - grand randonne - route is marked) but it seemed too hot to contemplate anything so energetic, even in the shade of the woods.

Castelnau:



Pont de Cirou:



We reached the busy dual-carriageway N188 just North of its impressive viaduct crossing the Viaur valley; although much less impressive than its well-known cousin at Millau, this is still an impressive feat of engineering, yet you get little concept of that as you drive across - you could easily fail to realise that you are on a bridge several hundred metres high. We had seen it from below at Thuries and so we knew.

On the way to Cordes we stopped at Monesties (just West of Carmaux) and asked at the Auberge d'Occitane if we were too late for a light lunch (at 2.15).



We enjoyed a good salad with pate and various sorts of ham and cheese, and a chilled 50cl pichet of rose. We had a walk around Monesties - more interesting half-timbered houses and a chateau:



before continuing our drive to Cordes, arriving there around 4pm. We found it absolutely heaving with other tourists and the first challenge was finding somewhere to park. The roads in and out were lined with cars and once in the town every conceivable parking place was marked "Payant", including the sides of all roads sufficiently wide to allow parking. Those at the very bottom of the hill were priced at 2.50 euros - we eventually found one of these and parked for nothing as the nice Frenchman leaving it gave us his ticket! Higher up the hill, parking was priced at 3.50 euros. Larger car parks are signposted but we didn't find them, and we didn't see them on our walk round either.

Cordes is beautiful and historic but has been badly damaged as an environment by tourism in the same way as Carcassonne - by excessive demand (overcrowding) and by shops selling either overpriced fashion items or cheap and nasty tat. We came here in the summer of 1991 (18 years ago!) and remember it as a far more pleasant place to visit. The searing heat didn't help, of course, and a stroll around Cordes would still be lovely on a cooler day, with less people, out of the high season. Today it was hard work climbing from the valley to the very top of the town.

Cordes:



In spite of being tired we continued to Najac, North of Cordes and back in the Aveyron. We have many pleasant memories of Najac from visits made in the 80s and 90s. It now makes an interesting contrast with Cordes! Although there will no doubt have been some development, Najac remains largely unspoilt and similar to how we recall it - a stunning street of picturesque houses astride a rocky ridge of hill, with a broad square at the higher end, the cobbled road descending towards the fine church with its big hexagonal tower, a short way up the opposing hill crowned with a magnificent, though ruined chateau; this provided the fortification for the village and is described in our guide book as a "masterpiece of 13th century military engineering". It was just as hard walking around Najac in the heat as it was at Cordes, but so much more rewarding. We don't think that its being less crowded had much to do with the later time of day; more the fact that Najac is less accessible, far more remote than Cordes and not on a main road - you use minor roads to get there. A visit to Najac is a must if you visit the Aveyron. One tip: park at the top of the hill (a good vehicle road makes its way up the side of the hill) - the easiest approach is via the D39 off the more major D922 between Cordes and Villefranche-de-Rouergue. Parking at the top of the hill gives immediate access to the main square (place du Barry) from where you can walk down through the village and re-ascend to the chateau.

Najac:




Marian's comment on seeing this tower: "If you needed the loo in the night you'd better be careful to go through the right door!"



Note that the lanes surrounding Najac to South, West and North are narrow, twisting and difficult but very pretty. In general, round here as with much of the region, if you have a motorhome then leave it where you camp and use more suitable transport to explore. If you drive far off the main roads with a motorhome it won't be long before you get stuck!

We drove back to Naucelle using a Northerly route, arriving in time for a delicious stir-fry, cooked and eaten outdoors in the late evening sun, by now just pleasantly warm.

Monday 27 July 2009

Although there was some early sunshine between large clouds, this soon became a full overcast of grey cloud, some dark enough to threaten rain. But it stayed dry and remained warm at 24 - 28C. We spent most of the day at the campsite, writing our blog, downloading photos, preparing a few e-mails, reading books and having a long lunch. At 4 pm we set off in the Smart for the village of Belcastel, a well-known beauty spot in the Aveyron valley next to the river; the stone village is built in terraces on the steep side of the hill with a partially ruined, partially restored chateau at the top. The impressive church is beside the river on the opposite bank, linked to the village by a medieval stone bridge (you can drive across this if your car is narrow and you are brave).

The chateau at Belcastel has been restored by its private owner; the price for a tour is between 7.50 and 9.50 euros per head depending on whether you choose to include an old forge in the visit. We thought this price was as steep as the hill you climb to the entrance and declined the opportunity; it is free to stroll around the beautiful village, walk beside the river and visit the church. At modest cost you can enjoy a drink or an ice-cream at one of the outside tables right by the bridge on the same side as the church. There is even a campsite there with several motorhomes on it, inculding large ones - getting these in and out must have been quite a challenge!

By now the sun had reappeared intermittently; enough to benefit the photography in this very scenic spot. We strongly recommend a visit to Belcastel.

Belcastel:



As well as visiting the village we drove the Smart round many of the very pretty lanes criss-crossing the Aveyron valley and gorges - these are twisty and steep; again not recommended at all in a camping-car, but perfectly suited to the Smart. We returned quite late to the campsite and were delighted that Thierry was happy to feed us from his good-value menu (features pizzas and simple dishes). We ate on the terrace of the little bar next to reception watching the sunset. Thierry had read the "meteo" and promised a return to hot sunshine for tomorrow!

Tuesday 28 July 2009

Yesterday's meteo was right and Thierry's promise fulfilled! Today brought another cloudless, deep blue sky and hot sunshine; the light breeze was back as well so it was an even nicer day than Sunday. We used the Smart to explore the Aveyron gorges just to the West of Belcastel:



eventually arriving, after much twisting and turning, at the village of Compolibat (just East of Villefranche-de-Rouergue). One of our tourist leaflets said that we should come here and walk to the famous Igues Rouges. We had no idea what "Igues" meant but there was a sign, and a photo suggesting that we were seeking red rock stacks, a smaller version of those to be found in Arizona. The signs pointed up a steep dirt track beside a deep, wooded ravine. We climbed steadily; the signs all disappeared; and just as we were wondering whether to turn back (after about a mile) a signpost appeared at a cross-tracks, pointing to the left and saying "Belvedere" (viewpoint). Steps descended steeply and a sign urged caution ("Soyez prudent"). The viewpoint gave an excellent sight of the first red rock stack on the other side of a small ravine. The path continued and R suggested following it; M was nervous as the descent into the ravine was steep and loose. However it soon flattened and then became well-stepped again. This path was mostly in the deep shade of the trees, very welcome in the hot sun. It crossed the ravine and climbed steeply up the other side past two more red rock stacks, the last of which was the most impressive of all, well worth the walk. But we were just getting a little concerned about how far this walk might take us (we had brought no water with us) when a sign appeared indicating that it would, indeed, lead us back to Compolibat. This circuit is only about two miles but does involve steep and rough ascents and descents; they obviously encourage you (with the signs) to do it in a clockwise direction, as we did. An excellent short walk with more stunning scenery:



We asked at the auberge at Compolibat if we might get a light lunch, perhaps a salad (it was 5 minutes before 2pm) but the lady "in charge" gave us a very "you are not welcome here" look and a stern "Non! Trop tard manger!". She didn't offer a drink so we didn't have one, and drove off, giving her a cheery wave (not returned) as we left. We had a quick look at the large and well-restored "Bastide" church at La Bastide l'Eveque. This is worth a visit if you have time but do note that it is kept locked and you have to be let in (free) by the nice and very helpful lady in the Syndicat d'Initiative opposite who lunches between 12 noon and 2.30pm; fortunately we arrived on the dot of 2.30. We continued to Villefranche-de-Rouergue, a largish town that we thought looked rather disappointing and unloved, although we hardly did it justice; the centre was too busy and devoid of obvious parking spaces to stop and walk around. But we did visit the local Leclerc to stock up on vital supplies!

Back at the campsite it was yet another barbecue in the sun. We're not even slightly bored with it yet!





Wednesday 29 July 2009

We spent most of the day at the campsite after our several quite long trips out in the Smart during the last few days. The weather remained hot and sunny. The pool looked inviting but was still very busy so we gave it a miss again and instead went for a walk in the small forest about 1Km from the site. We would have walked from the site but the road offers no shade so we decided to use the Smart; walking in the shade of the woods was, in contrast, very pleasant. A 2Km circular path has been signposted in this forest and a notice proclaims it a "sentier de sante" - what this means is that every few hundred metres a physical exercise is suggested by a noticeboard with diagrams and text instruction (in French of course). Most of these "exercise stations" are furnished with various poles, bars and the like; these form an integral part of the proposed activity.

The exercises vary from easy to absolutely impossible (the latter unless you are an elite athlete or a gymnast). We did a few of the "easier" ones (finding even these to be challenging enough in the heat), but for the most part we just enjoyed the walk. We imagine that you are really supposed to run round anyway, not walk!



Amusingly, though entirely sensibly, the very first station does no more than instruct you as to how to take your pulse and explains about maximum pulse rate (220 minus age) and advises no more than 70-80% of this. Somehow, this all seems so French!

Other than that we read our books, spent about 90 minutes online at Reception and had our usual light lunch (after the walk). In the evening we had signed up for a communal dinner at the site's cafe-bar, outside on the terrace in the evening sun. There was a band - a duo playing mainly 60s & 70s numbers (these were almost entirely British or American, mainly the former - Beatles, Stones, Status Quo!) and just a few classic French ballads full of angst, l'amour and la tristesse, as only they do it. The duo was pretty good, though it contributed mainly vocals and guitar riffs to predictable backing-track loops. This "do" was very enjoyable though hardly anyone danced, save a couple of youngsters who successfully resurrected jive at Olympic level - after watching them, anyone would have been brave to follow on to the floor. The evening passed quickly though and we had our latest night for some time.




Thursday 30 July 2009

Today we move on to Millau, still in the Aveyron, but further East at the Southern end of the Gorges du Tarn, and now famed for it's "Viaduc", a high elegant suspension bridge carrying the A25 autoroute. After very friendly "goodbyes" with Thierry and Chrystelle at Camping du Lac de Bonnefon, we refilled with diesel at one of the 24/24 fully automatic stations (you just use a credit card, but do note the figures from the pump as more often than not the machines fail to print a ticket - they are usually out of paper). The fairly short drive (about 60 miles) to Millau was uneventful with a short stop for a picnic in a pleasant shaded aire, and the campsite - Airotel Les Rivages - was very easy to find (good directions and for once a spot-on performance from TomTom - nice that the site actually gave on its letterhead the number in the street as well as the street name - TomTom usually takes you right there in that case). This is the second site we have pre-booked for 7 nights. It's much larger and more developed than Bonnefon but looks very promising and we have been given a nice pitch with plenty of shade and our own water tap as well as electric hook-up (6 amps). But it is expensive at 254 euros for the week (nearly 30 quid a night!!!). We will report further in the next update.

In summary, a great week at Naucelle and we would recommend the campsite and the area to anyone.

Cheers:

Camping du Lac de Bonnefon - a lovely site in a pretty and quiet situation; the welcome and attitudes of the owners could not be more friendly and helpful. It is good value too. But note that it is small in terms of touring pitches and booking in high season would definitely be advisable.

The area around Naucelle, basically South of the Aveyron and North of the Viaur rivers and valleys, stretching as far West as Najac, known as Le Segala, or "the land of the hundred valleys", is a gem still largely undiscovered and under-rated. Particular cheers for the beautiful villages of Sauveterre de Rouergue, Belcastel and Najac.

The walk from Compolibat around the Igues (red rock stacks).

The weather! Oh yes!

Boos:

Cordes-sur-Ciel in high season - too crowded, too developed just for tourists. Go there out of season.

The miserable and unfriendly landlady at the auberge in Compolibat; if you've stopped serving lunch before 2pm you can at least say so politely!

Next update in a week or so!

PS: For camping-caristes (motorhomers) reading this, if you are not already familiar with the MHF forum, do take a look here:

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/

Updated 24 July 2009 at Naucelle (Aveyron)

South-Eastwards from the Charente-Maritime (La Rochelle to Naucelle)

After posting our last update from La Rochelle on Friday 17 July we enjoyed a final dinner with our friends that evening at a good restaurant called Le Belvedere just outside the town and close to the bridge to the Ile de Re. The food was excellent and the restaurant has superb views. A large terrace overlooks the sea and the bridge, and would be a wonderful place to eat in suitable conditions, but this evening there was a near-gale-force wind and everyone chose the dining-room! It was interesting to watch the traffic crossing the long and quite high bridge in the gale, including quite a few caravans and motorhomes, all proceeding very carefully and slowly. There was a magnificent sunset.

This update covers the period from Saturday 18 July to Thursday 23 July inclusive.

Saturday 18 July 2009

After the usual late start (breakfast at 10 with our friends) we got all our things ready to put back on the motorhome and drove to Francois' house in the Smart, with Bernadette in her car carrying most of our stuff - it is surprising how much we unloaded for a week in their home. We packed everything on board and set off in the Smart to the huge Carrefour where we stocked up on food for the next several days. Back to our friends' house, final goodbyes to Dirye and Sinan; then to Francois for the second and last time to extract the MH from his garden, and set up the complete outfit in the road outside, an interesting and slightly nail-biting exercise which, amazingly, caused no traffic disruption! After final goodbyes to all we set off carefully through the rather narrow streets and took the fast dual-carriageway towards Saintes. We stopped at a slightly scruffy Aire for the customary picnic lunch in the company of a dozen or so other families. At Saintes a good ring-road took us easily onto the Cognac road and once there, the campsite by the River Charente was well-signposted; it appears to be the only campsite in or near to Cognac. Camping de Cognac is a very nice site and we were give a large shaded pitch well-located for all the facilities.






After settling in we set up our gas-grill barbecue and enjoyed a supper of pork chops under a cloudy sky but on a warm evening we didn't miss the sun. We had our first early night since our arrival at La Rochelle on 10 July, 8 days ago!

Sunday 19 July 2009

We are impressed with the campsite at Cognac - the sanitary facilities are kept very clean though they are rather limited in capacity. Strangely, hot water for washing-up is available only at the small "kiosk" supposedly reserved as "sanitaires handicapes" (the "hot" washing-up water in the main block varying between cold and warm, though the showers are hot) with the inevitable result that many campers who are not "handicapes" in any way wash-up at the "kiosk"! We tried to compromise by getting a bowl of hot water there and taking it to a sink in the main block; this got us surprised looks from others! The site is not busy (about half full) with many Dutch and English probably outnumbering the French.

It rained heavily overnight (rain hammering on the roof) but we woke to sunshine again and following a leisurely breakfast set off in the Smart for Saintes. We found the Abbaye aux Dames easily and parked the Smart neatly right outside in a space too small for a "full-size" car! After a hunt for the box office (no signs at all) we bought two tickets for a recital in the Abbey at 1pm which is part of the Saintes Classical Music Festival. We listened to three Bach sonatas for Viola da Gamba and Harpsichord, superbly played on genuine original instruments including a seven-string gamba which must be horrendously difficult to play and worth a fortune!




After this concert we tried to find a restaurant, any restaurant, in Saintes that would feed us at 2.15pm but to no avail as all were full through to the end of the afternoon. We remembered a small hotel-restaurant, Le Rustica, about 15Km South of Saintes, near Pons, in a tiny village called St Leger. We used to stay (and eat) at this place at least 20 years ago - we had no idea if it would still be there, and it was getting late to request lunch, but we jumped in the Smart and drove there speedily - not only is it still there but it has been improved (it used to be very basic). We asked (at 2.50pm) if we could eat and although they had officially closed the kitchens and had a large party in the middle of their lunch, they offered us a fixed menu of a seafood starter, beef main course, cheese and pudding. We ate a magnificent meal outside on their large terrace in the sun, though partly shaded by trees. The food was beautifully presented yet with generous portions, especially the steak which was enormous. A bottle of very good, and unusual, Bordeaux rose, contributed to a memorable Sunday lunch. We can recommend Le Rustica very highly - it is run by a lovely couple - so friendly and "Madame" speaks excellent English though she is delighted if you try out your French. We lingered a long time over coffee to help with the disposal of the alcohol and we were amazed at the value of this meal at 66 euros for the two of us - four courses, coffees and a bottle of good wine. St. Leger is just NW of Pons and is easily reached from the D137 between Pons and Saintes; if you are on the A10, the exit to use would be 36 (Pons).



In spite of this lunch lasting over two hours, we felt a short walk would be wise before driving back to Cognac. We strolled around the village in warm sunshine and drove back to the campsite by a scenic cross-country route crossing and re-crossing the Charente, enjoying having the Smart's roof down. We couldn't face any more food so the previously intended barbecue dinner was postponed.

Monday 20 July 2009

Today was very hot, the temperature reaching 38C by mid-afternoon. We lazed about at the campsite for most of the day, spending time at the swimming pool which was pleasantly cooling without feeling cold, and was not crowded. Mid-afternoon we decided to walk into Cognac (about 2.5Km) choosing the more shaded sides of roads and streets wherever we could. From the large central square, Place Francois I, we walked through the pedestrianised streets, pretty with flowers, until we reached the entrance to the public gardens (a small park) crowned by the very grand Hotel de Ville atop a small hill.




Behind this, in the park, preparations were being made for Cognac's annual Blues Festival starting this evening and continuing until Sunday. The programme for this looks promising and we wished we had known about it as we would have planned our timing to include at least a couple of days; but like the Saintes Classical Music Festival, these events, in spite of featuring international artists, seem to receive little publicity outside France. The Cognac Blues Festival is held every year for a week mid-to-end of July. Perhaps we'll make it in 2010. If you're one of those rare people who likes classical music AND blues, you could combine Saintes with Cognac in the same fortnight - both good events in great places!

We strolled around the many shaded paths in this park and then made for the river (the Charente), walked along the Southern bank a short way before heading up into the older part of the town past many interesting buildings including the chateau, several distilleries and some seriously old half-timbered houses (13th/14th century).





Back at Place Francois I, we had a cooling drink at one of the outdoor cafe's terraces shaded by sun umbrellas. We were now suffering from the heat and the walk back to the campsite was a trial; restorative showers were welcome.

Gaby and Bernadette (at La Rochelle) had recommended a restaurant near Cognac - the Chateau d'Yeuse at Chateaubernard - so we phoned and booked a table for 8pm. This turned out to be very grand, formal and expensive.



But the setting was magnificent, on a hill overlooking the Charente valley. Most if not all of the other diners were staying at the Chateau - this is not somewhere to stay or eat if you are budget-conscious! So we counted it as a belated celebration of our wedding anniversary (15 July). The food was excellent and the wine we chose (from the cheaper end of an enormous list) was good, but like the rest of the list, outrageously overpriced (cheapest bottle about 20 euros, most expensive 2211 euros - no kidding - average probably around 100). We decided we were paying for the setting - outside on a candlelit terrace with a grand panorama across the countryside.

R offered to drive the Smart back to the campsite so was very careful what he drank (a pineau and one glass of the wine) - M finished the rest of the wine, so we declined offers of hugely expensive Cognacs. Imagine that - visiting Cognac for two days and neither drinking nor buying any of its namesake tipple!

Tuesday 21 July 2009

Last night it was so hot that we slept with our roof fan (above the bed) blowing air onto us - even so the temperature in the MH did not fall below 25C. We breakfasted - early for us at about 9 - paid our fees for 3 nights (60 euros, 20 per night), coupled up the Smart and trailer without problems and drove away just after 11. We had booked a campsite for two nights at Collonges-la-Rouge in the Southern Limousin, a distance of about 140 miles from Cognac. Collonges is a pretty and famous medieval village built in the red sandstone found in its area - it is a well-known tourist attraction with car access banned to visitors (you must use large car parks outside the village). We know it well from several visits made in the 1980s when we stayed and ate in the local hostelry - the Relais de St.Jacques de Compostelle. We decided it would be nice to pay another visit there and have a leisurely day strolling around. The local countryside is beautiful. On the borders of the Limousin, Dordogne and Correze, Collonges is about 12 miles south-east of Brive-la-Gaillarde and isn't on a main tourist route.

Booking two campsites for the transfer between La Rochelle and the Aveyron represented a change of plan as we had originally intended to continue using France Passion locations. But a disadvantage of FP is that usually you are expected to stay just one night and move on - this is fine for overnights during a journey but not much good if you want to spend time looking round a place or area. Staying at Cognac gave us the opportunity to attend the concert at Saintes, visit another old haunt at Le Rustica, explore the town of Cognac and eat at a very grand restaurant.

We drove to Collonges via Angouleme, Perigeux and Brive using good N and D roads, avoiding autoroutes as usual except for a short non-peage section of the A20 round Brive. This route took us through the Perigord, as evidenced by the numerous "Foie Gras" notices by the roadside! We stopped for a brief picnic lunch in a lay-by just the Brive side of Perigeux - the first stoppping place for miles, though of course, after lunch and just up the road we passed a nice shaded "aire de picnique" with tables and views, as so often seems to happen! We got to Collonges about 4pm. The campsite is well-signposted just East of the village - it's the only site there. It lies in a small wooded valley on both sides of a small stream, right next to the municipal swimming pool - hugely crowded when we arrived. In contrast the campsite was only about 60% full and we were asked to walk round and pick a place before driving in. We were also asked to leave our trailer (but not the Smart) in the parking area, even though there was plenty of room for MH, trailer and Smart on many of the available pitches. All the pitches here are marked out, numbered and delineated by hedges, bushes and trees. Many are large and many are shaded. As usual, the fact that we were towing a car on a trailer got a certain look from the man at reception - not disapproving so much as "I don't see that very often" or even "I've never seen THAT before". Indeed we have seen very few motorhomes towing anything in France so far; it's definitely less common than in the UK, on our evidence to date.

We saw no British at Collonges and only a few Dutch; the vast majority of our fellow campers were French.

We found a nice, large, well-shaded pitch close to facilities and the entrance/exit. We acceded to the request to leave our trailer in "le parking", hoping it wouldn't disappear - we rely on a pathetic, badly designed hitchlock for security (this was supplied, and charged for, by Brian James Trailers, and they should be ashamed of it - anyone could neutralise it in a couple of minutes: note to BJT - nice trailer, shame about the security - you should pay more attention to this!).




By now the temperature had reached 42C and there was no relief from the blazing sun before 8pm when the sky started to cloud over. We enjoyed another barbecue (the one postponed from Cognac) and retired to bed with the inside thermometer showing 31C (it had peaked earlier at 38C) so once again the over-the-bed fan blew slightly cooler air at its maximum-force setting. The thunder and lightning started around 10 and the storm, though spectacular, was largely dry for a couple of hours. Then came the rain, hammering down and forcing us to close all our roof vents, shut off the roof fan and rely on slightly-open side windows for ventilation. The storm seemed to reduce the surrounding heat only a little - in the morning the inside temperature had fallen to 28C.

Wednesday 22 July 2009

Judging by the actual temperatures, today should have felt less hot - the violent storm overnight had reduced the day's peak from the low forties yesterday to the low thirties. Yet it felt even hotter because the humidity had risen considerably. Today was unpleasantly sticky - rather like living in a sauna. Our walk to Collonges-la-Rouges, less than a kilometre to the top of the hill and the village outskirts, was exhausting. Interestingly the route from the campsite took us past an "Aire de Service de Camping-Car" with lots of space for many units; also a loo and a service point though no electric hook-ups. This was a nice Aire with a choice of a large hardstanding area, a wooded section and a flattish grassy space. It is well-situated on the very edge of the village of Collonges. Had we known about it we might very well have tried to use it rather than the nearby campsite. We have avoided using Aires on this trip because we were advised that with our trailer and Smart, in the high season we would not be welcome, having to take up two spaces. While this would be true at many Aires with space for only a few vans, it would be unlikely to become a problem at this Aire at Collonges with so much room.

Strolling around in sunshine made hazy by high cloud, we found Collonges much more developed for tourists and more crowded than it was in the 1980s. There were many gift shops, clothes shops, food shops, craft shops and the like, and many eateries, most of them far from cheap. The place is still well worth visiting for its stunning red stone and so many towers topped by slate turrets, like a scene from a fairy tale. Although the crowds and commercialism have reduced the pleasure of a walk there, they have not removed it entirely.




We lunched simply and cheaply in a small cafe-bar style of restaurant at the bottom of the hill on which the village is built and so furthest from the visitors' car parks. It was noticeable that equivalent meals got cheaper as you walked on down the hill. Our meal at Restaurant le Tourtou was basic but just fine - and almost as good value as was commonplace in France 20 years ago. Our old haunt, the Relais de St.Jacques, is still there, still with its Michelin Guide listing, but open only for dinner and with prices likely to propel a bill for two people into 3 figures of Euros.

We summoned the energy to walk past the campsite as far as the next village of Meyssac to do some much needed food and general provisions shopping at the Super-U, staggering back laden in the sweltering late afternoon. The heat and our general exhaustion removed any appetite for more food today and we collapsed into bed as clouds gathered once again for more overnight storms; not as spectacular as last night's but prolonged with plenty of rain.

Thursday 23 July 2009

Thunder was still rumbling at 7am and it was raining steadily from a thick, grey overcast. By 9 the sun was shining again with the cloud rapidly breaking and thinning. But this time the storms had created a much more pleasant day, yesterday's clammy heat replaced by more bearable, drier warmth. We left Le Moulin de la Valane soon after 11am to continue our southerly journey, heading for the first of our pre-booked campsites near Naucelle, between Rodez and Albi in the Aveyron, a drive of just over 100 miles. Our route took us through the small and beautiful medieval village of Martel (sadly we were unable to stop with our full outfit), Figeac, where we crossed the Cele, and then across the Lot to Rodez. Most of this drive was gorgeously scenic and the weather steadily improved; although heat was building again, there was a refreshing breeze to compensate. We found Camping du Lac de Bonnefon easily; access and signposting from the N88 between Rodez and Albi is excellent. The campsite is superbly situated on a hillside above a small lake to which the site gives direct access; many campers here seem keen on fishing.

Our welcome by Thierry Moy, who runs the site with his wife Chrystelle, could not have been more friendly, welcoming and informative. Thierry speaks reasonable English and is so helpful that he naturally tries to use it, but in the end we resorted to some French when things got complicated - what to do with our trailer (leave it securely next to their house), what activities are planned during our stay (organised walks etc.); that kind of thing was helped by the usual Franglais approach! By 4pm we were installed (with MH and Smart) on a nice medium-size and flat pitch bounded by hedges and bushes and so perfectly-delineated and private.




More about this site when we have been here longer but it looks very promising as a good choice for a more extended stay in a fascinating and uncrowded part of France. As at Collonges, we seem to be the only Brits - indeed here we seem to be the only non-French! And as eveywhere, the trailed Smart seemed to arouse much interest and got us all sorts of looks, some envious, some unflattering, but mostly puzzled! The site has many fixed chalets and pre-erected tents; the area with touring pitches is quite small and dominated by tents and smaller caravans. We spotted only one other motorhome. The facilities are clean and adequate; there is a good laundry room with washing machines and driers. Wi-Fi is available in the reception area (we are told) and is free.



We did little else today - a short stroll to and alongside the lake and yet another barbecue (yet more pork chops). All around us, in almost every area of the campsite, a huge "boules" competition seemed to be in progress; we were too tired to join in (and it did seem awfully serious) but we enjoyed a bit of careful spectating and even exchanged a few words, probably giving the entirely false impression that we understood something of the game!